Requisite irrelevant information.

I am mechanically inclined. I hold a US Patent. This repair is far beneath me. Why am I writing a DYI help?  I read another fellow's blog and it wasn't complete. I got the link to find the parts. That was good. but I was frustrated why when I finished the repairs, the machine gurgled loudly and didn't get the hot water to the coffee grounds. My instructions will have you avoid that problem.

I have a good machine, just a couple years old and it leaked. Model JWX31BD.  It started leaking likely because I began to "reheat" the pot, having no water/coffee in the tank. I do not know for sure. The leaks were where the hoses connected at the thermal plate nipples and looked like they were overheated.

Many coffee makers look entirely different outside while the operation of the tank, hoses and thermal plate are identical. This means that this repair in generalized but needed methods are likely applicable to other models of machines.  I opened the bottom hatch to see if the leak was visible. It was. The screws are 4 Philips and 2 torx.  A small slotted screw driver will engage the torx if you don't have one.


This should tell you what is needed to fix your own Mr Coffee machine if you have the same genre of leak I did.

If you have to be told to unplug the machine to find the leak problem & work on it, do not continue and let someone else do this repair. I mean really.

Disclaimer: this article is designed to inform you of my successful repair. It is entertainment if you fail,  good advice if you are successful.

What you need, AKA all that I needed:

You will need a length of hose 12" standard offered size I bought here: HOSE 

If the link doesn't work, copy this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SYSGVU

You will cut the hose in half with scissors.

A small slotted screw drive or torx driver. 
A Philips screw driver.
Saliva/KY

If you need any other parts or advice here is 
Mr Coffee's tech service and parts phone: 800.673.6333

Important: remember to remove and then prepare to replace the tiny "check valve" that is INSIDE the intake hose, into the new hose. The check valve is directional,  AND replace it into the new hose, ORIENTING  it so pressure from the thermal plate will not  go the wrong way up into the water tank. The check valve is vital to the fundamental percolation physics. It is this apex law that is the reason for dark matter and energy. This check valve proves my theory that wormholes are unidirectional. Just in case you wanted to know.

Leak Symptom:
The dark orange or "Red" silicone hoses split from heat at the aluminum  thermal plate nipples. 

Removing old hoses: There are two hoses less than 6 inches long. I needed the minimum order sold of 1 ft which I carefully cut to length by eye, just long enough to prevent kinking, trimming as needed, trial and error, to eliminate the kinks. The hose I bought said it was the perfect size. That may be but it is not the exact thickness (gauge), but the ID (inside diameter) is fine. This means that cutting the new hose from the exact length of the old ones, when it is of a different gauge  may induce kinking when  the original hoses didn't. It works, so far. 

The hoses simply push on, there were no hose clamps on my Mr Coffee, but they are very hard to just "pull off". I carefully razor'd mine, a linear slit to weaken the grab at the swedge over the nipples, and they pulled off. Of course, do no bear down and score through the hose marring the plastic tank nipples with the razor. Do not pull the hose sideways and break off the nipples altogether. If that happens make sure you have thick shoes on when you  stomp the machine into oblivion.

Check valve: There is only one, "inside" one of the old hoses.  Find the check valve inside the old tank-to-plate supply hose, not the hose that feeds the piping from the thermal plate to the coffee bucket/filter. Carefully extract and re-install the check valve into the supply hose from the water tank. (If your machine has no in-line hose check valve, then perhaps your machine has one elsewhere). In case you didn't note which way it goes,  the check valve must be facing the right direction. It must not allow flow back INTO the tank from the thermal plate. The machine will not work at all if the valve is installed the wrong way. 

Installing the new hose,  I "lubed" them with saliva, inner surface of the hose and on the outside surface of the nipples. If it is your machine, saliva doesn't matter. However, it is your DNA and you could be mistaken for a serial killer down the line if the coffee pot is used in multiple murders, just sayin. You could try KY jelly. The hoses are not going to jump off the nipples. KY might provide some whimsical flavor to the first pot. The hose will initially slip on but will require a lot of pushing to "socket" IE go on all they way or "far enough". If you must use pliers (I didn't) to help push the hose on, don't smash/squeeze the hose so hard you split it open, or slip sideways and break off a nipple.